US20060024259A1
2006-02-02
11/177,333
2005-07-11
Disclosed herein is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a non-fatty cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer. Also disclosed herein are a method for shaping, holding, and/or fixing a hairstyle and a method for creating a water-resistant hairstyle by applying the disclosed composition to the hair.
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A61K8/737 » CPC further
Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds; Polysaccharides Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
A61Q5/06 » CPC further
Preparations for care of the hair Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
A61K2800/5422 » CPC further
Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects; Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients; Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
A61K2800/5424 » CPC further
Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects; Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients; Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
A61K2800/594 » CPC further
Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects; Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients; Mixtures Mixtures of polymers
A61K8/85 » CPC main
Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds Polyesters
This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/620,336, filed Oct. 21, 2004, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. This application also claims benefit of priority under 35 U.S.C. § 119 to French Patent Application No. 04 08398, filed Jul. 29, 2004, the contents of which are also incorporated by reference.
Disclosed herein is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a non-fatty cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer. Also disclosed herein are processes using this composition. Further disclosed herein is a method for fixing a hairstyle comprising applying to hair a cosmetic composition comprising, in a non-fatty cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer.
Cosmetic compositions for shaping and/or holding the hairstyle may be in the form of spray compositions comprising a solution, which is generally alcoholic, and at least one component, known as a fixing component, which is generally chosen from polymer resins, the function of which is to form welds between the hairs or to coat the hairs. The fixing component is often formulated as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.
These cosmetic compositions for shaping and/or holding the hairstyle are generally packaged either in a pump-dispenser bottle or in a suitable aerosol container pressurized using a propellant, the aerosol system comprising a liquid phase (or fluid) and a propellant. Styling compositions in a form chosen from gels, creams, and mousses may also be used.
Once such compositions are applied to the hair, it is intended that the fixing compounds therein will make it possible to fix the hair. However, the polymers commonly used as fixing agents in styling compositions do not allow the shape of the hairstyle to be maintained when the hair comes into contact with water for a prolonged period, for instance, when brought into contact with rain or perspiration or during bathing, for example, bathing in the sea or in a swimming pool, and the like.
The present inventors have discovered that the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer, makes it possible to fix and/or shape the hairstyle and/or maintain the shape of the hairstyle when the hair comes into contact with water for a prolonged period. This phenomenon is referred to herein as “water resistance”.
As used herein, the term “prolonged period” means contact with water for a minimum period of one minute, for example, 10 minutes or 20 minutes.
The compositions of the present disclosure may also make it possible to obtain styling that is resistant to atmospheric moisture.
The compositions of the present disclosure may allow good fixing and/or good hold of the hair, i.e., a styling effect that lasts throughout the day, or even for several days, and/or shows good water resistance, such as good resistance to repeated bathing. These compositions may also have the advantage of being removed by shampooing. In addition, these compositions may also allow good cosmetic properties to be imparted to the hair.
Disclosed herein therefore is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a non-fatty cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer.
Also disclosed is a method for shaping and/or holding the hairstyle in which the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure is applied to the hair.
Further disclosed herein is the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a non-fatty cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer, as a styling composition for fixing and/or holding the hair, for example, when it comes into contact with water for a prolonged period, i.e., in the case of rain, perspiration, or during bathing, such as bathing in the sea or in a swimming pool. According to this embodiment of the present disclosure, the use of the composition allows a water-resistant hairstyle (shaped hair) to be obtained, such that the fixing or hold of the hair is maintained after the hair comes into contact with water for a prolonged period.
The compositions disclosed herein may be in any form chosen from lotions, sprays, mousses, gels, creams, and pastes.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the presently disclosed compositions and methods will emerge more clearly upon reading the description and the examples that follow.
As used herein, the term “styling cosmetic composition” means a composition for shaping or holding the hairstyle.
Cosmetically-Acceptable Medium
The cosmetically acceptable medium used in the compositions of the present disclosure is a non-fatty aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic medium optionally containing at least one additional organic solvent.
Examples of alcohols which may be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, monohydroxylated alkanols chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, for instance, ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, and n-butanol. In at least one embodiment, the alcohol is ethanol.
The alcohol content in the compositions according to the present disclosure may range from 0 to 50%, for example, from 0 to 10%, or from 0 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of additional organic solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure include polyols, for instance, propylene glycol, polyol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of additional organic solvent in the compositions according to the present disclosure may range from 0 to 30%, for example, from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As used herein, the term “non-fatty medium” means that the weight amount of fatty substance(s) present in the medium ranges from 0 to 10%, for example, from 0 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Suitable fatty substances that may be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure may be chosen from silicone and non-silicone fatty substances, for example, silicone and non-silicone mineral and plant oils; waxes; and mixtures thereof.
As used herein, the term “fatty substance” is also considered as being any liposoluble compound, for example, any liposoluble polymer, included in the fatty phase.
Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure include volatile and non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, for example, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one group chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, and phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain and contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, for instance, phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and mixtures thereof.
Suitable non-silicone fatty substances that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure include all natural or synthetic, organic or mineral, non-silicone oils, waxes, and resins.
As used herein, an “oil” is a lipophilic compound that is liquid at room temperature (about 25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state. Animal oils and plant oils comprise propane-1,2,3-triol triesters as essential constituents.
Examples of oils that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, the following:
As used herein, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid, and/or alcohol groups.
As used herein, a “wax” is a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (about 25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than about 40° C. and which may be up to 200° C., and having an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. As essential constituents, the animal and plant waxes comprise carboxylic acid esters of long-chain alcohols. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that crystals scatter and/or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque, cloudy appearance. By raising the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a microscopically and macroscopically detectable recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained (opalescence).
Non-limiting examples of waxes that may be used in the composition of the present disclosure include waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, and lanolin derivatives; plant waxes such as sunflower wax, rice wax, potato wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fiber wax, and sugarcane wax; mineral waxes, for example, paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin, and ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes; and mixtures thereof.
Water-Dispersible Linear Sulfonic Polyesters
The compositions according to the present disclosure comprise at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester. As used herein, the term “water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester” means any sulfonic polyester capable of forming a dispersion, i.e., a two-phase system in which the first phase is formed from finely divided particles uniformly distributed in the second phase, which is the continuous phase.
As used herein, the term “sulfonic polyester” means copolyesters obtained by polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid or an ester thereof, of at least one diol, and of at least one sulfoaryidicarboxylic difunctional compound substituted on the aromatic nucleus with a group —SO3M in which M is chosen from hydrogen and metal ions such as Na+, Li+, and K+.
The water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyesters used herein have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 1,000 to 60,000, for example, from 4,000 to 20,000, as determined by gel permeation chromatography (or GPC).
The glass transition temperature (Tg) of these sulfonic polyesters ranges from 10° C. to 100° C. In at least one embodiment of the present disclosure, the Tg of the at least one water-dispersible linear sulphonic polyester is greater than or equal to 50° C. The glass transition temperature (Tg) is measured by differential thermal analysis (DSC, differential scanning calorimetry) according to ASTM standard D3418-97.
Examples of suitable sulfonic polyesters are described in more detail, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,734,874, 3,779,993, 4,119,680, 4,300,580, 4,973,656, 5,660,816, 5,662,893, and 5,674,479.
Sulfonic polyesters which may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure may comprise at least some units derived from isophthalic acid, sulfoaryldicarboxylic acid salts, and diethylene glycol. In at least one embodiment of the present disclosure, the sulfonic polyesters used may be obtained from isophthalic acid, the sodium salt of sulfoisophthalic acid, diethylene glycol, and 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol.
Non-limiting examples of sulfonic polyesters include those known under the INCI name diglycol/CHDM/isophthalates/SIP, and sold under the trade names “Eastman AQ Polymer” (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 ULTRA) by the company Eastman Chemical.
The at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester may be present in the compositions according to the present disclosure in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40%, for example, from 1% to 30%, or from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Nonionic Thickening Polymers
The compositions according to the present disclosure comprise at least one nonionic thickening polymer.
Suitable nonionic thickening polymers, also known as “rheology modifiers”, may be chosen from fatty acid amides, for example, coconut monoethanolamide, coconut diethanolamide, and oxyethylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ether monoethanolamide; cellulose-based thickeners, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose; guar gum and its derivatives, for instance, the hydroxypropyl guar gum sold under the name JAGUAR HP105 by the company Rhodia; gums of microbial origin, for example, xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum); and nonionic associative polymers.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic associative polymers include:
In at least one embodiment of the present disclosure, the polyurethane polyethers may comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains, or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. At least one of the hydrocarbon-based chains may be a pendent chain. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
The polyurethane polyethers may be in multiblock form, for instance, in triblock form. Hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain, for example, a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block, or distributed both at the ends and in the chain, for example, a multiblock copolymer. These polymers may also be graft polymers or starburst polymers.
The nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, from which they derive their name.
Also included among the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure include Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox; Rheolate® 208, 204, and 212; Acrysol RM 184®; Elfacos T210® containing a C1214 alkyl chain sold by Akzo; Elfacos T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain, sold by Akzo; and DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas, containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, sold at a solids content of 20% in water.
It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, for example, in water or in aqueous-alcoholic mediums. Examples of such polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox and DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
Further examples of polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure include those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen—Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).
In at least one embodiment of the present disclosure, the compositions may comprise a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
Examples of such polyurethane polyethers include those sold by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 44® and Aculyn 46®. Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%). Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).
The at least one nonionic thickening polymer may be present in the compositions according to the present disclosure in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10%, for example, from 0.05% to 5%, or from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester/nonionic thickening polymer ratio may range from 2% to 50%, for example, from 2.5% to 20%, or from 3% to 15%.
The compositions according to the present disclosure may also contain at least one additional cosmetic adjuvant such as those mentioned below.
Fixing Polymers
For example, as an additional fixing polymer, any anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic fixing polymer, and mixtures thereof used in the art may be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure.
The at least one additional fixing polymer may be soluble or insoluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium, and may be used in the form of dispersions of solid or liquid polymer particles (latices or pseudolatices).
Anionic Fixing Polymers
The anionic fixing polymers useful herein may be polymers comprising groups derived from acids chosen from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, and phosphoric acid and may have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 5,000,000.
The carboxylic groups may be provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to formula (I):
in which
In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group denotes, for example, a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl and ethyl groups.
Suitable anionic fixing polymers may be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acid and salts thereof, crotonic acid copolymers, copolymers of C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids and anhydrides, polyacrylamides containing carboxylate groups, homopolymers and copolymers containing sulfonic groups, anionic polyurethanes, and anionic grafted silicone polymers.
Examples of anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic groups include, but are not limited to:
These polymers are described, for example, in French Patent Nos. 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 to L'Oreal.
Examples of homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulfonic groups include, but are not limited to, polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic, and acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
These polymers may be chosen, for example, from:
The branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 by the company Noveon may also be suitable for use as an anionic fixing polymer.
In at least one embodiment of the present disclosure, the anionic fixing polymers may be chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF; copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name RESIN 28-29-30 by the company National Starch; polymers derived from maleic acids, maleic anhydrides, fumaric acids, fumaric anhydrides, itaconic acids, and itaconic anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez® by the company ISP; the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma; the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX and MAE by the company BASF; the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name LUVISET CA 66 by the company BASF; the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name Aristoflex® A by the company BASF; and the polymer sold under the name FIXATE G-100 by the company Noveon.
For example, the anionic fixing polymers may be chosen from methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by the company ISP; the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF; the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma; the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name RESIN 28-29-30 by the company National Starch; the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX and MAE by the company BASF; the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymers sold under the name Acrylidone® LM by the company ISP; and the polymer sold under the name FIXATE G-100 by the company Noveon.
Cationic Fixing Polymers
Suitable cationic fixing film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present disclosure may be chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 5,000,000, for example, from 1,000 to 3,000,000.
Non-limiting examples of cationic fixing polymers include homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic esters and amides containing amine functions, cationic polysaccharides; quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole; and chitosans.
Further examples of cationic fixing polymers include but are not limited to:
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain at least one comonomer unit that may be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides, and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with at least one group chosen from lower (C1-4) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic and methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Non-limiting examples of copolymers in family (1), include:
Examples of commercial products corresponding to family (5) include, but are not limited to, the products sold under the name “CELQUAT L 200” and “CELQUAT H 100” by the company National Starch.
Amphoteric Fixing Polymers
Suitable amphoteric fixing polymers that can be used in the composition according to the present invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, in which B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising at least one group chosen from carboxylic and sulfonic groups. Alternatively, B and C may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising groups chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary, and quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group. Alternatively, B and C may form part of a chain of a polymer containing an α,β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising at least one group chosen from primary and secondary amine groups.
Non-limiting examples of suitable amphoteric fixing polymers include copolymers comprising acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, crosslinked and acylated polyamino amides, polymers containing zwitterionic units, chitosan-based polymers, modified (C1-C5)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers, amphoteric polyurethanes, and amphoteric grafted silicone polymers.
Further examples of amphoteric fixing polymers include, but are not limited to, the following polymers:
Examples of suitable N-substituted acrylamides and methacrylamides include compounds in which the alkyl groups comprise from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, for example, N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide, and the corresponding methacrylamides.
Suitable acidic comonomers may be chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, and alkyl monoesters, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic and fumaric acids and anhydrides.
Examples of basic comonomers include, but are not limited to, aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N′-dimethylaminoethyl, and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
Copolymers having the CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphomer® and Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch, are also suitable for use in the compositions of the present disclosure.
Suitable carboxylic acids may be chosen from acids comprising 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, and acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid.
Examples of alkane sultones which may be used in the acylation may be chosen from sultone and butane sultone. Suitable salts of the acylating agents include the sodium and potassium salts of the acylating agents.
The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers, such as dimethyl- and diethylaminoethyl acrylate and methacrylate, alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, acrylamides and methacrylamides, and vinyl acetate.
Examples of such polymers comprising zwitterionic groups include, but are not limited to, the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company Sandoz.
In at least one embodiment of the present disclosure, the amphoteric fixing polymer may be chosen from family (3), described above, such as the copolymers having the CTFA name octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV 71, and Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch and family (4), described above, such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate, sold, for example, under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company Sandoz.
Nonionic Fixing Polymers
Suitable nonionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present disclosure may be chosen, for example, from:
In at least one embodiment of the present disclosure, the alkyl groups of the nonionic fixing polymers may comprise from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
Grafted Silicone Fixing Polymers
According to the present disclosure, it is also possible to use grafted silicone fixing polymers comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, and the other being grafted onto the main chain.
These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105, WO 95/00578, EP-A-0 582 152, and WO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571, and 4,972,037.
These polymers may be amphoteric, anionic, or non-ionic. In one embodiment, the polymers are anionic or nonionic.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that may be obtained by free radical polymerization from the monomer mixture comprising:
Further examples of grafted silicone polymers include, but are not limited to, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl (meth)acrylate type and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain, polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate type.
Another non-limiting example of a suitable silicone fixing polymer is the product Luviflex® Silk, sold by the company BASF.
Polyurethane Fixing Polymers
Functionalized or non-functionalized, silicone or non-silicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, or mixtures thereof may also be used as fixing polymers.
Suitable polyurethanes may also include those disclosed in patent applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297, assigned to L'Orèal, patent applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510, assigned to BASF, and EP 0 619 111, assigned to National Starch.
Other non-limiting examples of polyurethanes that are suitable for the present disclosure include the products sold under the names Luviset Pur® and Luviset® Si Pur by the company BASF.
When the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional fixing polymer, the fixing polymer content may range from 0.1% to 20%, for example from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional Thickening Polymers
The compositions according to the present disclosure may also contain, as an additional cosmetic adjuvant, at least one additional thickening polymer, also known as a “rheology modifier”. This additional thickening polymer, referred to herein as the co-thickening polymer, may be chosen from cationic, anionic, and amphoteric thickening polymers.
The concentration of the at least one additional thickening polymer, if present, may range from 0.01% to 20%, for example, from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The styling composition according to the present disclosure may also contain at least one additive chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants; nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric additional polymers other than the fixing polymers used in the compositions according to the present disclosure; ceramides and pseudoceramides; vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol; silicone and non-silicone water-soluble and liposoluble sunscreens; fillers and solid particles, for instance, coloured and uncoloured mineral and organic pigments; nacreous agents and opacifiers; flakes; active particles; dyes; sequestering agents; plasticizers; solubilizers; acidifying agents; basifying agents; neutralizers; mineral and organic thickeners; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; penetrants; fragrances; and preserving agents.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions according to the present disclosure.
These additives may be present in the composition according to the instant disclosure in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Other than in the examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention. At the very least, and not as an attempt to limit the application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the claims, each numerical parameter should be construed in light of the number of significant digits and ordinary rounding approaches.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, unless otherwise indicated the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements.
By way of non-limiting illustration, concrete examples of certain embodiments of the present disclosure are given below.
EXAMPLE 1Formulation A was prepared by combining the components listed below:
| % of active | ||
| Formulation A | material | |
| Diglycol/CHDM/isophthalates/SIP copolymer | 20 | |
| (Eastman AQ 55 S - Eastman) | ||
| Hydroxypropyl guar (JAGUAR HP 105 - Rhodia) | 0.5 | |
| Dimethicone (silicone oil) | 1 | |
| Stearyl alcohol | 8 | |
| Deionized water | qs 100 | |
| Fragrance and ingredients | Qs | |
Eastman AQ 55 S sold by Eastman Chemical Company is a copolymer of diethylene glycol/1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol/isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate, and is a water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester as defined herein.
Hydroxypropyl guar (JAGUAR HP 105—Rhodia) is a nonionic thickening polymer as defined herein.
Procedure:
Two grams of the test formulation were applied to a lock of 2.7 g of natural hair 27 cm long. The treated lock was rolled up on a curler 1 cm in diameter, to give it a shape. The product was left to dry in the open air and then the lock was removed delicately from the curler. The lock thus shaped was then immersed in a bath of 8 liters of salt water (3% NaCl) at room temperature, with magnetic stirring at 100 rpm. The length of the lock over time was measured in order to evaluate the shape hold. The results of the shape hold measurements are shown below in Table I. The shape hold was evaluated using the following formula:
% shape hold=(Li−L)/(Li−L0)*100
wherein
Li is the length of the lock before shaping on the curler.
| TABLE I | ||
| % shape hold | ||
| Immersion time | A | |
| 0 | 100 | |
| 35 | seconds | 100 |
| 40 | seconds | 100 |
| 2 | minutes | 100 |
| 5 | minutes | 100 |
| 10 | minutes | 100 |
1. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a non-fatty cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester is a polycondensate of at least one dicarboxylic acid or ester thereof, of at least one diol and of at least onedifunctional sulfoaryldicarboxylic compound substituted on the aromatic nucleus with a group —SO3M, wherein M is chosen from hydrogen and metal ions.
3. The cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the metal ions are chosen from Na+, Li+, and K+.
4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester is obtained from isophthalic acid, the sodium salt of sulfoisophthalic acid, diethylene glycol, and 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol.
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the Tg of the at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester is greater than or equal to 50° C.
6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein the at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The cosmetic composition of claim 7, wherein the at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one nonionic thickening polymer is chosen from fatty acid amides, cellulose-based thickeners, guar gum and its derivatives, gums of microbial origin, and nonionic associative polymers.
10. The cosmetic composition of claim 9, wherein the fatty acid amide is chosen from coconut monoethanolamide, coconut diethanolamide, and oxyethylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ether monoethanolamide.
11. The cosmetic composition of claim 9, wherein the cellulose-based thickener is chosen from hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.
12. The cosmetic composition of claim 9, wherein the guar gum derivative is hydroxypropyl guar gum.
13. The cosmetic composition of claim 9, wherein the gum of microbial origin is chosen from xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum.
14. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one nonionic thickening polymer is chosen from celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers; copolymers of C1-6 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates and methacrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks, optionally polyoxyethylenated, and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences; and polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton containing at least one fatty chain.
15. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one nonionic thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. The cosmetic composition of claim 15, wherein the at least one nonionic thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The cosmetic composition of claim 16, wherein the at least one nonionic thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester/nonionic thickening polymer ratio ranges from 2% to 50%.
19. The cosmetic composition of claim 18, wherein the water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester/nonionic thickening polymer ratio ranges from 2.5% to 20%.
20. The cosmetic composition of claim 19, wherein the water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester/nonionic thickening polymer ratio ranges from 3% to 15%.
21. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one fixing polymer chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.
22. The cosmetic composition of claim 21, wherein the cationic fixing polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic esters and amides containing amine functions, cationic polysaccharides, quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, and chitosans.
23. The cosmetic composition of claim 21, wherein the anionic fixing polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids and salts thereof, crotonic acid copolymers, copolymers of C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids and anhydrides, polyacrylamides containing carboxylate groups, homopolymers and copolymers containing sulfonic groups, anionic polyurethanes, and anionic grafted silicone polymers.
24. The cosmetic composition of claim 21, wherein the amphoteric fixing polymer is chosen from copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, crosslinked and acylated polyamino amides, polymers containing zwitterionic units, chitosan-based polymers, modified (C1-C5)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers, amphoteric polyurethanes, and amphoteric grafted silicone polymers.
25. The cosmetic composition of claim 21, wherein the nonionic fixing polymer is chosen from polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homopolymers and copolymers, acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, acrylonitrile copolymers, styrene homopolymers and copolymers, polyamides, vinyllactam homopolymers other than vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, vinyllactam copolymers, nonionic polyurethanes, and nonionic grafted silicone polymers.
26. The cosmetic composition of claim 21, wherein the at least one fixing polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
27. The cosmetic composition of claim 26, wherein the at least one fixing polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
28. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one additional thickening polymer chosen from cationic, anionic, and amphoteric thickening polymers, and mixtures thereof.
29. The cosmetic composition of claim 28, wherein the at least one additional thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
30. The cosmetic composition of claim 29, wherein the at least one additional thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
31. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one additive chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants; nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric additional polymers; ceramides and pseudoceramides; vitamins and provitamins; silicone and non-silicone water-soluble and liposoluble sunscreens; fillers and solid particles; nacreous agents and opacifiers; flakes; active particles; dyes; sequestering agents; plasticizers; solubilizers; acidifying agents; basifying agents; neutralizers; mineral and organic thickeners; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; penetrants; fragrances; and preserving agents.
32. The cosmetic composition of claim 31, wherein the fillers and solid particles are chosen from colored and uncolored mineral and organic pigments.
33. A method for shaping, fixing and/or holding a hairstyle comprising applying to hair a composition comprising, in a non-fatty cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer.
34. A method for creating a water-resistant hairstyle, comprising applying to hair a composition comprising, in a non-fatty cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer.