Use of alkylpolyxylosides in cosmetics

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The subject of the present invention is the use of particular alkylpolyxylosides as agents enhancing the cosmetic feel of oil-in-water emulsions containing a polymer, and the oil-in-water emulsions containing such alkylpolyxylosides.

2. Related Art

Cosmetic emulsions with an aqueous continuous phase (that is to say of the oil-in-water or O/W type) increasingly frequently contain polymers which are used as thickeners, emulsifiers or stabilizers. The use of these polymers make it possible to reduce or eliminate the quantity of traditional emulsifiers. However, the feel of the cosmetic compositions thus obtained loses in richness and becomes aqueous.

Patent application FR 00 04414, filed on 6 Apr. 2000, describes compounds of formula:
R—O—(X)_p
in which:

• p represents a decimal number between 1 and 5,
• X represents a xylose residue, and
• R represents a branched alkyl radical of formula:
  CH(C_nH_2n+1)(C_mH_2m+1)—CH₂—
  in which m is an integer between 6 and 18, n is an integer between 4 and 18 and the sum n+m is greater than or equal to 10.

These compounds are recommended as surfactants.

It has now been discovered that alkylpolyxylosides obtained from a Guerbet alcohol having from 16 to 28 carbon atoms make it possible to enhance the feel of oil-in-water emulsions containing a polymer.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention provides a composition, as well as a method of preparation, comprising at least one alkylpolyxyloside represented by formula (I);
R—O—(X)_p  (I),

wherein p is a decimal number between 1 and 5,

wherein X is a xylose residue, and

wherein R is a branched alkyl radical represented by the formula:
CH(C_nH_2n+1)(C_mH_2m+i)—CH₂—

wherein m is an integer between 6 and 12, n is an integer between 8 and 16, and the sum of m+n is in the range of from 14 to 26. The addition of this composition to an oil-in-water emulsion enhances the cosmetic feel of the emulsion.

DETAIL OF THE DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS

Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of an alkylpolyxyloside of formula:
R—O—(X)_p  (I)
in which:

• p represents a decimal number between 1 and 5,
• X represents a xylose residue, and
• R represents a branched alkyl radical of formula:
  CH(C_nH₂₊₁)(C_mH_2m+1)—CH₂—
  in which m is an integer between 6 and 12, n is an integer between 8 and 16 and the sum n+m is in the range from 14 to 26;

or alternatively of a composition consisting of a mixture of at least two alkylpolyxylosides as defined above;

as agent enhancing the cosmetic feel of water-in-oil emulsions containing one or more polymers.

Preferably, the sum n+m is equal to 14, 16, 18, 22 or 26 and R represents more particularly a 2-hexyldecyl (m=6, n=8), 2-octyldecyl (m=8, n=8), 2-hexyldodecyl (m=6, n=10), 2-octyldodecyl (m=8, n=10), 2-decyltetradecyl (m=10, n=12) or 2-dodecylhexadecyl (m=12, n=14) radical. In a particularly preferred manner, the sum m+n is greater than 16, and is advantageously equal to 18, 22 or 26, more preferably still equal to 22 or 26.

In formula R-O—(X)_p, the group R—O— is linked to X by the anomeric carbon of the xylose residue, so as to form an acetal functional group.

p, which represents the average degree of polymerization of the xylose, is more particularly between 1 and 2.5, and most particularly between 1 and 2.0.

The compound of formula R—O—(X)_p may be prepared by reacting xylose with an excess of a fatty alcohol of formula ROH, and then removing the unreacted fatty alcohol.

In the process as defined above, the reaction is carried out in the presence of strong acid catalysts.

According to one variant of the process as defined above, the xylose is reacted with an alcohol of formula R₁—OH, in which R₁ contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more particularly with butanol, to give the acetal of formula R₁O—(X)_p, which then undergoes transacetalization with an excess of alcohol of formula ROH with distillation of the alcohol of formula R₁OH formed and then removal of the unreacted alcohol of formula ROH.

In this process and its variant, as described above, the removal of the unreacted alcohol of formula ROH is carried out according to methods known to persons skilled in the art such as for example distillation, thin-film distillation, molecular distillation or solvent extraction.

According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

• • from 0.1 to 15% by weight of one or more alkylpolyxylosides as defined above;
  • from 0.05 to 10% by weight of one or more polymers;
  • more than 5% by weight, preferably more than 7% by weight, and more preferably still more than 10% by weight, and up to 50% by weight of a fatty phase consisting of one or more oils and/or one or more waxes.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the alkylpolyxyloside of formula (I) is in the form of a mixture with its corresponding Guerbet alcohol (of formula ROH where R has the meaning given above), in an alkylpolyxyloside/alcohol weight ratio in the range from 1/99 to 99/1.

Among the polymers used in the oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, acrylic acid derivatives, acrylamide and its derivatives, acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, vinyl monomer, trimethylaminoethylacrylate chloride such as for example the products marketed under the name CARBOPOL® Ultrez 10, PEMULEN® TR1 and TR2, SIMULGEL®A, SIMULGEL®NS, SIMULGEL®EPG, SIMULGEL®EG, LUVIGEL®EM, SALCARE®SC91, SALCARE®SC92, SALCARE®SC95, SALCARE®SC96, FLOCARE®ET100, HISPAGEL®, SEPIGEL®305, SEPIGEL®501, SEPIGEL®502, FLOCARE®ET58, STABILEZE®06; hydrocolloids of plant or biosynthetic origin such as for example xanthan gum, karaya gum, carrageenans, alginates; silicates, cellulose and its derivatives; starch and its hydrophilic derivatives; polyurethanes.

Among the oils which can be used in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular:

• • oils of plant origin, such as sweet almond oil, copra oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheatgerm oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkinseed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sisymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil;
  • vegetable oils and their ethoxylated methyl esters;
  • oils of animal origin, such as squalene, squalane;
  • mineral oils such as paraffin oil, liquid paraffin and isoparaffins;
  • synthetic oils, in particular fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids, such as glyceryl triheptanoate, alkyl benzoates, poly-alpha-olefins, polyolefins such as polyisobutene, synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils and silicone oils.

Among the waxes which can be used in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned for example beeswax; carnauba wax; candelilla wax; ouricoury wax; Japan wax; cork fiber or sugarcane wax; paraffin waxes; lignite waxes; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; hydrogenated oils; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids which are solid at room temperature; glycerides which are solid at room temperature.

The water-in-oil emulsion in accordance with the present invention may also optionally contain up to 15% by weight of an emulsifier.

Among the emulsifiers which can be used in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned for example fatty acids; ethoxylated fatty acids; fatty acid esters of sorbitol; ethoxylated fatty acid esters; polysorbates; polyglycerol esters; ethoxylated fatty alcohols; sucrose esters; alkylpolyglycosides; sulfated and phosphated fatty alcohols.

In a manner known per se, these emulsions may additionally comprise one or more compounds chosen from humectants, such as for example glycerin, preservatives, colorants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, inorganic or organic sunscreens, inorganic fillers such as iron oxides, titanium oxides and talc, synthetic fillers such as nylons and polymethyl methacrylates which are crosslinked or not, silicone elastomers, sericites and plant extracts.

The oil-in-water emulsions in accordance with the invention may be prepared in the following manner.

The aqueous phase is heated to a temperature of 70 to 85° C. In parallel, the fatty phase containing the emusifying system of the invention and the oils (optionally additivated with waxes, coemulsifiers and lipophilic active agents) is heated to an identical temperature of 70 to 85° C. The two phases are then mixed and emulsified with the aid of a rotor-stator type emulsifier (for example a SILVERSON laboratory mixer). After a few minutes of emulsification, the emulsion is cooled with gentle stirring. The polymer(s) are introduced into the oily phase, into the aqueous phase or directly into the emulsion according to the recommendations of the suppliers.

If all the components of the emulsion are liquid, the manufacture may be carried out without heating.

EXAMPLES

The invention will be illustrated with the following examples.

Example 1

Preparation of a 2-decyltetradecylxyloside

61.8 kg of 2-decyltetradecanol, marketed by the company SASOL under the name Isofol®24, are introduced into a reactor. 8.7 kg of xylose are gradually dispersed in the stirred medium and 65 g of sulfuric acid are then added. The mixture is kept at 115° C. for 6 hours, under a partial vacuum, and then neutralized with caustic soda. After filtration, the clear liquid obtained has a hydroxyl value of 183 and contains 15% by weight of 2-decyltetradecylxyloside and 85% by weight of 2-decyltetradecanol.

Example 2

Demonstration of the Feel Enhancement Obtained when the Compound According to Example 1 is Added to Cosmetic Preparations Containing No Emulsifier

Two series of emulsions having the following compositions are prepared:

1st series

	Cetearyl octanoate	10%
	Water	qsp 100%
	Polymer	qs
	Preservatives	qs

2nd series

	Compound according to example 1	3%
	Cetearyl octanoate	10%
	Water	qsp 100%
	Polymer	qs
	Preservatives	qs

Mode of preparation: the polymer is dispersed in water and neutralized if necessary, and then cetearyl octanoate is introduced into the gel formed. Homogenization of the emulsion is carried out without heating, by stirring with traditional items of equipment. The compound according to example 1 is added with cetearyl octanoate.

The preparations obtained are O/W emulsions.

A sensory evaluation is carried out on a panel of 20 trained volunteers. The results are presented in table 1. Each criterion is scored from 0 to 5.

TABLE 1
		Carbomer 0.4%
	Polyacrylamide	and
	and	acrylates/
	C11-13	steareth-20	Acryloyl
	isoparaffin	methacrylate	dimethyl
	and laureth-7:	copolymer	taurate
Polymer	3%	0.2%	copolymer 1%

Evaluation of the emulsions without the compound according

to example 1

Richness	2	0	0
Residual film	2	1	1

Evaluation of the emulsions containing 3% of the compound

according to example 1

Richness	3	2	3
Residual film	4	3	3

The addition of 3% of the compound according to example 1 to the polymer-based emulsions significantly enhances the richness and increases the sensation of emollience, leaving a residual film significantly perceived by the volunteers.

Example 3

Demonstration of the Feel Enhancement Obtained when the Compound According to Example 1 is Added to Cosmetic Preparations Containing an Emulsifier

Two emulsions having the following composition are prepared:

	Emulsifier	3%	3%
	Compound according to example 1		3%
	Cetearyl octanoate	10%	10%
	Water	qs 100%	qs 100%
	Polyacrylamide and C11-13	1.5%	1.5%
	isoparaffin and laureth-7
	Preservatives	qs	qs

The preparation of these emulsions is carried out according to a conventional process by emulsification in the hot state of 2 aqueous and oily phases.

The preparations obtained are O/W emulsions.

A sensory evaluation is carried out on a panel of 20 trained volunteers. The results are presented in table 2. Each criterion is scored from 0 to 5.

TABLE 2
	Arachidyl
	alcohol and
	behenyl	PEG 100
	alcohol and	stearate and
	arachidyl	glyceryl	Ceteth 2 + ceteth
Emulsifier	glucoside	stearate	21

Evaluation of the trials without the compound according to

example 1

Richness	1	1	0
Residual film	1	1	1

Evaluation of the trials containing 3% of the compound

according to example 1

Richness	3	2	2
Residual film	3	3	3

The addition of 3% of the compound according to example 1 makes it possible to significantly enhance the sensory profile of the emulsions tested by simultaneously increasing the richness and the residual film.

It will be understood that many additional changes in the details, materials, steps and arrangement of parts, which have been herein described in order to explain the nature of the invention, may be made by those skilled in the art within the principle and scope of the invention as expressed in the appended claims. Thus, the present invention is not intended to be limited to the specific embodiments in the examples given above.